Travel Diary: To the Valley in Kashmir

It’s raining when we arrive. The neighbour, spunky, bright in skirts and hair clips surrounded by books and take-out is moving out. It all seems very sitcom-like to me. Suburban, modern, bizarre here in the middle of Srinagar. Doctorates and pizza parlours. She hands over the key, offers food, points […]

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The tolling bell

We drove along the sugar cane fields. To anywhere. Anywhere, but there. The land moving up and down on your right, the winding twisting road to nowhere. The last stop, the giant dome, far from home, but once, long ago during the year of the crocodile, we took the road […]

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Mermaids underwater

I don’t meet expectations, no kitchen Goddess, an empty womb, no man to call my own (and would I, even call him that? Because no one is really anyone’s, I know this now), that shorn head, these unbendable toes, that flashing temper and tooth-pick legs, the sudden cheek-flushing embarrassment and […]

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The Sea

And you were out to sea. You had the sail open and the oar in your arms and the water was as clear and clean as a shirt on a line in the early morning. There was a touch of blue in the sky, a small warning, in the tiny […]

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Words rust in history

‘You have become quiet. You don’t say half as much as you did before. Your words, no longer, confetti.’ Because age brings out the fallacy in words. They’re not as reliable anymore. Words don’t mean what they say. They don’t capture truth, only act as cages for all the wrong […]

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Unrevealing hands

I think it was my laugh. That hysterical gaggle from inside the throat that hits the air two seconds too long. It’s unladylike. Ungraceful. Too crude for someone with such small bones. I think it must have been my laugh. He looked at me and probably said that laugh is […]

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Travel Diary: One rainy night in Srinagar

November 2013 It’s so cold. I’m looking out the window at a skyline of rooftops. Small green gardens with rickety furniture. Dogs in the street. Someone on a bicycle. An auto rickshaw starting. A woman wrapped in a shawl walking down the road. We are getting ready to go out. […]

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Pick up tissues along the way

This. The breathing everyday, the waking up, the air forced into lungs, the feet under the ground, the way the hands slice bread to make sandwiches, the coffee down the throat, the momentary relief in an elevator alone, as the doors close,  and at night, as sleep falls. The cupping […]

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Travel Diary: Diwali in Delhi

I am standing on the side of the road along parked cars. It’s my first night in Delhi; Diwali and the air is thick with smoke and noise and the promise of late-night parties and holiday. Thrown like confetti into the heart of a city after so much quiet coldness. […]

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